Racks.

You ought to be able to take for granted that your touring bike is ready for luggage. If you need a bike for general urban use and some touring, the bike should come with a rear rack fitted already. If not or you should be told exactly which racks it is made for.

Common problems with rear racks include...

• racks not being level. This can be a function of several things taken together...rack dimensions, chainstay length, and upper rack mount position which itself varies depending on many things. 26” wheel bikes and low-step-over bikes have more problems here.
• racks not being rigid sideways. Eventually something will give (or crack). The main telltale sign is long flat connecting arms with long slots in them.
• If a bike has rear disc brakes and rack mounting points on the frame it might be difficult to actually find and fit a decent and compatible rack.

• You need both a tail light and a rear reflector.  A rear rack, perhaps with something such as a sleeping bag strapped on the top, means that the reflector and the light need to be mounted at the very back of the rack. That position makes them vulnerable to damage. The best position is below the 'deck' of the rack and it is best if the light does not extend out to the edge of the rack.

Some issues with front racks ...

• Front racks not being level.
• Some front racks not being compatible with front disc brakes.
• Some not being durable enough.

Tubus.

We have ensured our bikes are compatible with the racks we have found to hold up indefinitely, those made by the German company, Tubus. We supply and fit their rear racks on all models of our bikes. We use metric thread stainless steel cap screws and washers. Please note, we supply the front racks only on 2012 season barend lever models.  

The Tubus Logo carrier is a good choice for travellers. The lower bag mounting point improves the centre of gravity and also optimizes the use of the upper loading area. Heel clearance is better.

To compliment this we have had made a cr-mo top deck which is available as an accessory. This can be lashed on with thin leather bindings or cable ties. Thus a sleeping bag can be left on the rack top while a pannier is taken off.

This photo is from the Tubus site and not from one of our bikes.  

Our test riders fly with their bikes often and report that it is not unusual for rear carriers to take hits during the luggage handling. The cr-mo material may bend but it can be straightened and it does not actually break. Alloy carriers are seriously weakened when bent.

Do you need front racks on a particular trip?

A set-up with Tubus Duo plus Ortlieb front bags weighs 1.86kg before you put anything in the bags. They also add to the overall wind resistance. Whilst some people take six month and even longer bike trips and carry more luggage including camping gear, many people in permanent jobs can only get 2-3 weeks breaks. They train or fly somewhere, ride and stay in lodging or use couchsurfing. They are very fussy about weight due to airline limits and excess baggage costs. They still need rear bags and a handlebar bag but they manage without front bags.

So, not all touring bikes need a front rack, at least not for all trips. Campers however do generally need front racks. Bikes on longer duration trips generally need front and rear racks.  

We recommend the Tubus Duo which requires upper mounts on both the inside and outside of the fork blades. This means you don’t need the “hoop” which normally connects and stabilizes the left and right sides of front racks. Again this photo is from Tubus and it does not show the disc rotor, front mudguard or the dynamo hub.

Some people have tried other front racks and in view of the potential frustrations we have additional discussion on choice of front racks for long distance touring bike and on fitting them.

Handlebar real estate.

Handlebags are fantastic bike accessories whether you are touring or riding to work. As their attachment uses up some of the handlebar space it is best that the handlebar is not used to mount the headlight or the horn (or bell).

Whilst on the issue of handlebar space we are great advocates for compasses on handlebars. There is a lot of ferrous metal in a touring bike and a compass will not work correctly unless it is in a plane that is above this metal. The one we like is a Recta model (“Clipper”) which measures 23mm across the top, is very light, and may be attached to the top of the handlebar with two cable ties. You don’t have to be on a tour to benefit from having a compass on your handlebar. 

To find a spot on your bike that is free of interference, hold the compass well above the bike and gradually lower it down towards the bars whilst you ovserve the compass arrow.